Wednesday's Waffle

Each week we're aiming to bring you a bit of something either taken directly from or inspired by local fanzine propermag.

To start this we've dug into their archives and are happy to bring you an interview with top UK designer Kenneth MacKenzie who is behind the brand 6876.

The following is taken from Issue 3 of Proper Magazine, originally released in early 2007. This magazine is available both from us here at Schindler or online from propermag.com.

We hear you're on the verge of expansion, with a new distributor and your gear available in more outlets? Is that true?

Yes basically after the break with the brand i gave myself 2-3 years to get everything back to a certain level and in fact its taken almost four but now there isn't really anyway i keep working in the same manner. The brand needs to develop and the best way is for me to allocate more of my time to working on product & creative areas rather dealing with everything.
The agency is ran by an old friend as i didn't really want to hand over to just any operation so although we haven't really started yet i am so far really content with how the relationship is going to unfold. In terms of distribution there will not be a massive change its just that certain cities that we don't have stockists in will now be taken care of and developed.

Also with a brand like 6876 the most difficult part of our work is getting the clothing produced as factories want to have larger numbers than we currently don't sell so its like a war trying to make sure the quality & delivery times are good, so the only way to get better service is to have more production power i.e larger orders.

Finally i have been approached with regard to various collaborations & consultancies so if the correct one came along the distribution deal gives me the time to able to work on something else.
Those who have seen your new collection for A/W 07 say it's one of your best yet. Why do you think that is?

Autumn winter collections always offer more scope in terms of styles and fabrics that you can use plus we have re-introduced accessories which worked out quite well. Also there was a definite move to a more specialist aspect to each and every fabric for the outerwear as i think customers want to know they are getting something reasonably exclusive.

Final point bear with us because this collection has been a real struggle to produce due to fabric deliveries / availability so i hope its worth the struggle & wait!

What are the highlights of A/W07?

The fabrics are really interesting: technical wools, cotton with climate control paraffin print backing, C Change technology & waxed cotton.

Styles are a mixture between a more clothing feel and sportswear which i think works well & gives the collection a quite grown up feel.

Is it true your sizing will be a little more generous than before?

Yes we are making certain styles that are more sportswear orientated larger although knitwear & shirting is still quite exact.

We are trying but its difficult to please everyone.

Most of our readership would fit loosely under the heading of 'casuals'. Are you aware of the ever increasing appreciation of your stuff in those circles and what do you think of those types wearing it?

For me i think its a good thing as i like the close-knit and loyal aspect of the "casuals" community.

Also i think after the huge exposure of men's fashion over the last 10-15 years i think in terms of the mainstream media that the situation has regressed and many magazines do not really relate to what many men really like to wear & tend to portray the kind of fashion that they (the magazines) think is directional.

Personally i think we appeal to quite a diversity of men but the "casuals" scene is a good arena to be appreciated in as the individuals themselves are passionate about fabrics & detailing etc.

Also its good to have customers who like football in an old school way.

Do you think the politics and the punk aspects of the brand name are reflected in your designs at all? We recently saw some t-shirts with obvious influences but I'm thinking in more general terms?

The influences are more of an attitude and spirit rather than clothing. (although originally with punk people wore second hand clothes )

Basically that we are an independent company as opposed to corporate & that i try and bring into the brand image all my interests (whether people get it or not) plus that we present our clothing through collaborations with photographers/film makers & musicians which i think is quite a DIY perspective.

The T-shirts were a re-issue from when we first started & although many people requested that we produced them again i still had doubts as appropriated "political" imagery in fashion has been kind of trashed by those that don't even know what they are talking about or have those views.

So we have now moved to a collaboration with Scott King for T-shirts which are his designs and i think the way we work does always have "our" spirit that larger brands can't really replicate even if they wanted to. We may work on a very political but practical project for next summer outwith the collection but its under wraps at the moment.

How did the collaborations with Maharishi come about?

When i was leaving my old job pre-6876 Hardy came in with his first range and i ordered it for the store & we've known each other since then with quite a few mutual friends. He always wanted to work on collaborations especially as it might not be that obvious to some people & i think that was part of the reason. It’s easy to do the expected. (i think some people didn't like it!)

Is it true you turned down the chance to work with the people behind the likes of CP Company and Stone Island, SPA Sportswear in Italy? If so why?

Not really we met through the Four Marketing guys and had a good meeting but my ex-business partner went down with everyone like a lead weight!

i could elaborate but suffice to say anything that could have developed was kind of stopped then and there...also it was a very exploratory meeting note that specific. Anyway its fate i am content the way things turned out...plus its not as if they don't know where i am.

While 6876 dates back to 1995 you split from your financial partner in around 2002 (?). What is your take on these events? Was it a positive thing and do you think you'd be in a different position today if things had continued as normal?

From the outside everything looked very promising but there were many conflicts and the main one was distribution in Japan as my ex-partner wanted me to work with his man which really spoilt that market for me.

Basically since the split i have spent allot of time over there business and pleasure. Basically when everyone is not pulling in the same direction its very frustrating and it never felt that solid. Although the brand might have been further down the line and its been really hard the last few years at least i am in total control.

You started 6876 from humble beginnings. What inspired you back then? Were there any designers in particular who you looked up to?

I had just had enough of working for other people & with product i wasn't that passionate about.
When i first started there was a basic premise: understated quality clothing that actually worked & that didn't reply on inflated hype or branding. Influences: Military & vintage clothing. Designers / Brands: Massimo Osti, Patagonia, Ralph Lauren & in their early days Comme Des Garcons. Sometimes its brands/designers that aren't that similar to 6876 for instance in Japan there's Porter bags that i have always bought & recently a workwear/denim brand called Kapital.

Is it possible to define what 6876 is about in 4 words?

Impossible! ..........Design,product,distinctive & stubborn!